1970 Olds 442 - Sports/Post Coupe vs Holiday/Hardtop - Overheating problem solved - Thanks Everyone!

**zracer** · 08-15-2011, 11:56 PM

My dad my thinks that the high flow water pump may be a waste of time due to the fact that it may make the water flow too fast through the radiator not allowing it the proper time to cool. Next time the car is warm, you should also check the radiator for clogs by carefully using your hand to check for cooler spots on the radiator fins. Any cooler spots will indicate a clog in the radiator. Also, 190-205 is probably reasonable in traffic.

**toysalot** · 08-16-2011, 12:15 AM

Make sure the proper coolant mixture is in there and fresh. I would go with a larger radiator if you can mount one in there. And the most important thing is that there are no clogs like zracer says.

Not real sure about the hi-flow pump without a larger radiator.

you seem to be on the right track. Just cruise until you get it figured out.

Smoking score too...btw!

**redlinejohnny6872** · 08-16-2011, 11:39 AM

FE Big Block Fords, (390, 427, 428) don't even start to breathe, until around 210 degrees, lol............

I'm running a Flow-Kooler aluminum water pump, stock Big Block FoMoCo 3 row core radiator, and a 160 degree T-stat on my stroker small block Ford in my '68 Ranchero GT, and no matter how hard i try, it will not go over 190, even on 100 degree days in L.A........

Olds V-8's were designed to run where you're at now, getting it to run a bit cooler is only better.............

I've had a few Oldsmobiles, and the '66 442 i had always ran around 200, never gave it a second thought.........

Start to worry when you're running around 225-240............

Sweet car, '70 is one of my fav years for 442's, i'd like to find a cherry '73 Hurst Olds myself.......

**Johnnyredline** · 08-16-2011, 01:30 PM

Originally Posted by redlinejohnny6872

FE Big Block Fords, (390, 427, 428) don't even start to breathe, until around 210 degrees, lol............

I'm running a Flow-Kooler aluminum water pump, stock Big Block FoMoCo 3 row core radiator, and a 160 degree T-stat on my stroker small block Ford in my '68 Ranchero GT, and no matter how hard i try, it will not go over 190, even on 100 degree days in L.A........

Olds V-8's were designed to run where you're at now, getting it to run a bit cooler is only better.............

I've had a few Oldsmobiles, and the '66 442 i had always ran around 200, never gave it a second thought.........

Start to worry when you're running around 225-240............

Sweet car, '70 is one of my fav years for 442's, i'd like to find a cherry '73 Hurst Olds myself.......

Johnny,

Thanks for your input...very good points you make.

The radiator is 4 row and the high flow waterpump goes in today with new upper and lower hoses.

Thursday the shroud arrives and that should be the last detail to get this beast to run cool.

I appreciate your advice as always.

Zracer, Jeff and Joshua,

Excellent input as well...you guys are great!

**68Mustanger** · 08-16-2011, 02:56 PM

Homie, the Stang did that when I first got it and it was missing the shroud. That to me will make a big difference. I also took the radiator in and had it boiled out. No problem since, even in stop and go traffic at 105, I roasted with no a/c, but the car didn't. As far as high volume water pump, I think it might do like a Bronco motor I had with a high volume oil pump, it pumped too much, too fast! Too much, too fast does not allow the water in the radiator to cool. A good flex fan and shroud, maybe a boil out and you should be good!
Good luck! Keith

**bandito72ply** · 08-16-2011, 02:59 PM

Just stay on roads with no traffic and go really fast......The faster you go the better you will keep her air cooled.

**goldvrx** · 08-17-2011, 02:21 AM

I agree with the others, a fan shroud will make a big diffrence helping the fan to pull air thru the rad. Also a high flow water pump may move the coolant too fast thru the block, not allowing enough time to asorb the heat from the engine.

**lobo524** · 08-17-2011, 11:42 AM

From a diagnostics approach: I would wait and install the shroud first to see if it does the trick for you. If it does the trick - then you saved yourself from installing the high flow waterpump (new hoses would probably be good, though).

My thought is: If you've got the waterpump installed and the shroud and have the same numbers you're running now, you may feel there is another issue (when there may not be) and tear into it further.

**68Mustanger** · 08-17-2011, 03:08 PM

Homie, read though your posts some more and noticed you had head gaskets put in. Were they put in the right way?? Did all the holes match up? If your still having problems with it you might have one in backwards covering up one of the water jackets preventing the water to flow though. Just a thought!
TTYL

**Johnnyredline** · 08-17-2011, 10:05 PM

Goldvrx, Bandito and Lobo,

Thanks for your input.

Homie,

I thought about the head gaskets being installed incorrectly and causing the car to run hot...that is a worse case scenario and I don't think that is the problem but thanks for mentioning that.

The high flow water pump and new upper and lower hoses has been installed and the car runs 3-5 degrees cooler...The fan shroud , stock fan blade and stock fan clutch should arrive tomorrow...I am also installing an electric pusher fan in frt of the rad...all of the above should solve my heating problem.

I will update as I go.

Thanks for all the input.

You guys rock!